Photo of the Day
Transport in Belize is sometimes basic. These children get a ride and an interesting view of the country on the way.
Tags: bottom, thumb, time, blog, trousers, way, belize, tent, photo, Travel, DayWelcome to Guatemala
Flores, Guatemala
No breakfast for us, Katrijn and I set off early for a very sweaty walk back to the car. Once there we found that Bill had patched up my leak with some JB Weld and we poured in a quart of oil and held our breath. It seemed to hold so in went another gallon and we ran it for 5 minutes. It was already roasting so didn’t take long to get very hot. It seemed we would be able to leave that day.
I took a few photos of Bill and his wife Katherine since they wouldn’t take anything for their trouble. I found out Bill is from Hendersonville in North Carolina, the place I spent my very strange thanksgiving last year. I promised to send them a copy once I got Internet access.
We left their little slice of heaven and drove gingerly along the rutted track, inevitably we snagged a few rocks on the way and each time I hopped out to survey the potential damage. Luckily I was careful enough to make it back to the paved highway, from now on it would be plain sailing.
We gave a lift to a local into San Ignacio which was much closer than I thought and we decided what to do. It was 11.30am by now and San Ignacio didn’t look that exciting. We had some lunch, worked out a few financial sums to make sure we had enough cash and headed towards the border. Hopefully we would be in Flores sipping beer by the lake very soon.
It was only 9 miles to the border and it didn’t cause any major problems. I got myself stamped out of Belize, canceled my car importation, paid my $37.50B and drove over no mans land towards the Guatemalan border. You have to drive through a building that sprays your car which proved completely ineffectual as by the time I had the windows up it had sprayed mostly the air in front of my car and little else.
No visa was required for me, I stood in the line behind a tiny Guatemalan lady and paid Q10 (€1) for my 90 visa. Next I did the paper work for my car which required my title and a copy of my title and passport. It cost Q40 which was payable at the nearby bank and I was given a sticker to place in my window. A border guard checked my paperwork and after paying a further Q50 cross the bridge we were in Guatemala and I was on country 5 of my trip.
The roads were worse than Belize which seemed strange and half of the trip over to Flores was on a rough, but mostly flat dirt track. I was just happy to get through the border in only an hour and relived my oil pan was still holding out.
I still wasn’t driving through the deep jungle I was hoping for, most of the roads look pretty much alike, houses and shops every once in a while and the usual hazards of dogs, horses and motorbikes. Flores was only a couple of hours away and a major tourist stop. It sits in the middle of a lake and we were early enough to check into one of the best and most popular hostels, Los Amigos.
We met Eva in the street and decided to give the tourist stuff a miss and spend the next day chilling out. I had ten million photos to process and lots of blog entries to write. Seemed like this was the place to do it, and when that was too boring I could go and visit the mythical city of Tikal. More ruins…. I think my last for a good while!
walk to car/bill and katherine/Â jb weld/photos/lift to local/lunch/money-atm/hour at border/ok roads/flores/met eva/los amogos/shower/blog
Tags: beers, Guatemala, guatemalan border, nan, cars, money, bikes, visa, tikal, tourists, blog, hostels, border guard, lunch, eveThe tragedy and the Irony* : Facebook sucks.
Caye Caulker,
My mum doesn’t facebook. She’s one friend I don’t need to add. She can read my blog to find out what I’m up to since I now don’t really do much email. That’s fine, facebook is personal.
Yesterday three girls from England arrive in the afternoon. I told them I was Swedish to appear more interesting and to see if they really believed me. They still haven’t got it,who wants to be British on a island full of Poms. Different is good. We hang out, chat, go for some drinks that night. Great girls.
Caroline and Krishna
Next day we hang out and chat some more. My mate frog and I persuade Caroline to come down to the Karaoke for a beer and we start chatting about the hostel which turns to talk of how some hostels are brothels on occasion, like in Africa…
This isn’t going where you think :p
Well I say to Caroline about how she could never do that but it turns out she did. She was in Ghana and did a 3 months overland trip too. We chat about Ghana and the music and dancing. The usual fun of reminding each other of the great times in a shared experience of a place. I tell her that I saw the Eclipse in ’06 thinking this would impress her even more. Hey, I’m not shallow, it was a great thing to see! :p
She impresses me by telling me that she also saw it and we chat about where she spent her 3 months. I ask if she was a volunteer and when she says ‘yes’ a trail of lightbulbs went off in my head.
On my last day I went to a volunteer party… did you got to a party a few weeks after the eclipse? – Yes
I describe it perfectly for her. The court yard, the beer place, the music, the dancing. We also went off to a club together after the party.
So weird.
It turns out she also went to the same place on St Patricks Day in Accra a couple of weeks before, the Irish pub with the live band. We made a pile of shoes and danced on the concrete until they felt like velvet slippers when we were done. Such an awesome night.
It is a small world but I wouldn’t want to paint it.
So why does facebook suck?
Because now you meet people, you make them your friend and maybe someday you notice they’re in the same country and you can track them down. We’re all becoming ultra connected, how can we manage all those narrow threads of brief connections manageable. GPS and mobiles will making ‘pinging’ your friends a normal thing. Its cool to think you will know who will be in the pub that night without asking them but then so will the police if we continue towards this dangerous path along the shattered road of civil liberties.
The chances of people meeting again, randomly reconnecting across the continents is a spectacular luxury we have in the west, but one that is doomed to die. I met a girl called Rachel in New Zealand, Australia and Indonesia, the second and third time only briefly, but in the middle of nowhere. It was such fun. Maybe a well trodden route and not entirely unexpected but Ghana to Belize after 25 months is so amazing.
So guard your friend requests. Don’t make it a quest to gather up as many as you can. More that a few hundred are not your friends, they’re just names, more than a thousand is a full fledged hobby. How you people make time to make new friends I never know. I guess I should try being an attractive girl to find out.
Defriend a few people right now and see if you miss them… they wont mind, they wont even notice you’re gone. Then maybe you’ll bump into a old friend you stupidly failed to make the first time.
So where is the tragedy? That I had to wait so long to really meet Caroline. She’s great. Rest assured I have not fallen in love with her over a weird coincidence, indeed she was freaked out by the whole thing. Maybe she thought I was stalking her across the world :p We passed and didn’t connect.
The tragedy was that I didn’t make any impression on her the first time. Although she lost her photos she doesn’t appear in any of mine from the two nights in Accra. I hung back a bit, I chatted to some people but I wasn’t really there until I started dancing. As you get older you have less to lose and more to gain from being outrageous. We all want to be remembered, if only temporarily, because one day that’s all we will be.
So I will make it my goal now on to find as many people as I can to charm, encourage, humour, help and impress. I’m trying but I need to try harder. I need to be more aggressive than I am, less watching from the wings when I should be pushing towards the center of the stage. You should try the same. Who wants to be forgettable?
I believe we’re like a half marble bouncing around in a marble bag. You may never meet other half but you never will unless you try to connect with every marble in the bag. Just don’t add them all to facebook, it crashes if you have more than a million friends.
So I guess its really not facebook that sucks but me. I shan’t cancel my account just yet.
You’d impress me right now by subscribing and telling 3 more people to subscribe, my blog is now my sole income. I’m trying to travel overland to every country remember, its not free.
*If you want to add me in facebook I’m Travel Trousers, put something original on my wall. Mum, don’t even try!
Comments are back on.
Tags: new friends, great time, rash, crash, lips, belize, mail, krishna, brothels, Travel, paint, trousersHunting the elusive Manatee
Caye Caulker, Belize
Well, I enjoyed the Sea Hawk snorkeling trip so much I went again, I even got a discount, but then I figured I could have gone diving for a few dollars more… oops!. Maybe this time I would get lucky with the Manatees!
A week on a Caribbean Island
Caye Caulker, Belize
One week would never be enough but it would have to do. Caye Caulker isn’t the ‘la isla bonita’ Madonna sings about but it was a beautiful spot all the same. The time was right, I arranged to take Katrijn and Eva over to Flores in Guatemala and just about managed to catch the boat where I am writing this post.
What a great week. Rain, storms, lots of sunshine, warm water but mostly my time was filled with hanging out with a great group of people. After a day at a boring hotel I moved into Bella’s and started having lots of fun. I admit the other guys were having even more fun, but then they were drinking all hours of the day and I didn’t want or need to compete with that.
We did lots of relaxing at the split where they have a great spot for relaxing on the broken concrete pier and a rickety dive board for showing off to the girls. Alcohol and dive boards are not a good combination, but highly entertaining.
I wasn’t just hanging out slacking though. I went out on the free kayaks with Jordan to try my luck at some fishing which was fun. Didn’t catch a damn thing but he still managed to sell me his rod and reel for $30 us. I got a good deal
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The snorkeling trip with the boys from the Sea Hawk were highly recommended too, it seemed everyone from the hostel ended up going and how can I argue with figures like that? They sail out to the reef and make three stops. Hopefully sighting some Manatees on the way. We didn’t get that lucky, there were 2 hanging out but the group before us ended up scaring them away. I put my underwater camera to some good use though.
Nikki shooting me shooting her.
You know what they saw about boats and alcohol though, drinking rum punch while hanging off the rope at the back is not such a great idea, but it seemed it at the time.
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There were a few hard nights of drinking to get through too. I should stress I mostly managed to resist the pull of cheap rum and didn’t have a single hangover. Lots of the guys there ended up missing most of the night after.
See the girls run
Caye Caulker, Belize
Its only a Portuguese Man ‘O War!
Tags: belize, portuguese, thumb, Travel, trousers, 4c, girls, youtube, tent, man o war, blogChanging rooms
Caye Caulker, Belize
I moved. Great view from my window.
Tags: Travel, belize, changing rooms, tent, blog, caulker belize, trousers, thumbUp the creek
Orange Walk, Belize
The night in the restaurant wasn’t too bad after all, and you can’t beat $5 us for a place to stay. We were up early getting prepared for the river trip up to the Lamanai ruins which we had booked with the river lodge. It was $40 us, the same as everywhere else in town, but these guys started further downstream which meant you got another 7 miles of wildlife to spot on the way up. The river was high right now too, check out the breeze block walkway to our hotel.
There wasn’t a huge amount to see really, but then we had just spent the day at the zoo! :p A few iguanas and crocs but not too many birds. Why the tour left at 9am and not earlier didn’t make much sense but then I wasn’t running it. It was going to be a hot day either way.
During lunch I took a swig of my Sprite and was rewarded with something that had crawled or flew into the bottle. This normally wouldn’t be so bad but it then proceeded to sting me inside my throat! The pain was excruciating and I could feel it moving around in my neck. Several cups of water didn’t seem to dislodge it but I was worried about the potential swelling. I blagged a anti-histamine from the Canadian mom in our group and was reassured to see she also had a syringe for when/if I stopped breathing. Luckily I felt fine, if very uncomfortable for the rest of the day.
Tags: eve, swig, walkway, s eve, Travel, anti histamine, 9am, thumb, birds, day at the zoo, sprite, orange walkJaguars baby!
Orange Walk, Belize
I went to bed late after sorting out another million photos, certainly later than Vanessa who walk into the cheap hotel room, fell into bed and didn’t stir afterwards. She still thought it would be a good idea to wake me up as soon as she did though instead of leaving me in peace until 10 minutes before she was packed and ready to go… We had a chat, I don’t think it will happen again :p
We were out by 8.30am, possibly a new record for this trip and went off to eat a breakfast burrito by the nearby market. Just the one though. We asked for another and were told they were finished. The lack of flour in Belize is getting rather annoying. We picked up some fruit in the local market after making it through the lackluster police checkpoint and then hit the road back north. Its quite a few hour back up to Orange Walk with not much on the way. I made an attempt to pull over for a nap on the way but the bugs were too annoying and the air too hot. Its about 32 degrees in the afternoon now, far to hot to stand still for long.
We did stop off at the Belize zoo on the way and after paying the $8 to get in saw a heap of local animals in nearly natural environments. Vanessa and I had a fun few hours blasting away with our telephotos. Here are a few highlights…. I love my telephoto
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Up in Belize city we went looking for a place to stay and settled on a place by the river that had no rooms but would put us in the restaurant for only $10US until we got a room the following day. Should be fun, as long as the Karaoke doesn’t go on too long :p
Tags: local market, nearby market, thumb, tent, nap, trousers, heap, set, monkey, bugs, karaoke, tea, nearby, cheap hotel, checkpointChilling by the beach
Belize
Just a quick update while I wait for my turn on the connection. I’m currently about to leave Hopkins in the middle of Belize with a charming American girl (they do exist!) called Vanessa on a trip back to the north to see some caves, temples and wildlife. Staying on the beach wasn’t a great success, there has been so much rain recently the normally green water is brown and churning up foam! Hopefully the weather will improve on the way into Guatemala. I will have to fulfil my minor ambition of swimming in the Caribbean when/if I get to Honduras, although that might then be the bay of Honduras. This geography thing is so confusing!
| Spashing down the Manatee highway! |
3 thrills a day
Hopkins, Belize
Visiting a salsa factory isn’t really very thrilling but its interesting to see. Marie Sharp is a Belizean legend and her hot sauce is on over table in the country. Pop into the factory for a tour if you’re passing that way.
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After that we went swimming in the Blue Hole park. Nice and fresh. Vanessa got a thrill when we floated down the river and were nearly sucked into the underwater tunnel. I saved her
Then we went nearly a mile into the cave nearby with only a small LED flashlight. That was fun. Vanessa was kinda scared :p
Then the biggest and best thrill was saved until last but we didn’t take any photographs. We couldn’t and I will explain why.
When we had driven down to Hopkins a few days before we passed some people in a horse drawn buggy who we assumed to be Amish. We soon learned that they were Menonites, and they had a sizeable community out in the jungle. On the way back up we decided to go and have a proper look.
4 miles up a dirt track from the main road we found a set of farms and houses. No electricity poles or cars were about but there were quite a few people. We stopped to chat to a local on the road and asked if there was any where we could get some food nearby. The community didn’t have anything as advanced as a restaurant but he suggested we pull into someone’s drive and eat with them.
This seemed a bit crazy, to just invite yourself to dinner with a random family but when I suggested we choose his house he told us to give him half an hour and let us know where he lived. We carried on up the road to explore some more.
Vanessa and I wanted to photograph the people but knew this would be rather rude and managed to restrain ourselves. We turned around and stopped again to chat to a guy loading up some lumber at the lumber yard. He was also dressed the same as all the men in the area. Straw hat, blue shirt and a long beard.
Abraham, it turned out, was the brother of John, the man who had invited us to dinner and we waited a while talking about their life in the village and what we were doing in the area. At least until we had to move out of the way of horse and cart that wanted to get past. This was the closest to a traffic jam that you can get around here.
We drove back to Johns house and met his wife Margaret and learned they had 11 children running around, ranging from 7 months to 14 years old. The three boys were outnumbered by their sisters slightly but they were all curious as to what we were doing and what we looked like. I have no idea what they thought of my long hair but they all stared when I took off my hat.
John was building onto his new house so we sat in that and talked some more. Some of the children had had some vaccinations that morning so were somewhat afraid of strangers. They also dressed in the traditional way and John explained how they bought cloth and made their own clothes.
He took us on a mini-tour of their farm and showed us their horse drawn washing machine and how they could change the belts around to power the corn grinder and even a drill. Chickens were running everywhere in the yard, jumping over broken farm equipment and being chased by the barefoot children.
In the field nearby they kept horses for transport and cows for dairy produce. The Menonites are all vegetarians but they are not against using animals to make money. They must be quite well off since they came and bought 3,000 acres in the valley. 35 families lived there and they had only been there 12 years but were well established with a church, school and market.
A spring from the hills provides all the families with a gravity fed clean water supply and the land was green and fertile, perfect for farming. The Menonites provide 80% of the countries local produce and with no real costs for gasoline or other resources were in a great position to profit from the worldwide increases in food prices. I only hope they don’t also suffer from this, people can get very jealous from others’ success.
We learned they sometimes even had people coming to rob them with guns and someone was shot through the hand a few years back. Now they don’t keep too much money in the houses.
Dinner was finally ready so we washed our handed and all 15 of us squeezed around the table, the adults at either end. Vanessa my ‘wife’ and I sat together, we both felt it best not to correct them on this point, it was hardly relevant.
We bowed our heads for a silent prayer and passed around the bowls for a simple meal of vegetable stew, rice, cottage cheese and soup. The children were learning English in school but their main language is Low German which they would mutter amongst themselves. They didn’t really speak to us but we knew at least some of the older ones understood what we were talking about.
Vanessa and I were desperate to photograph this beautiful scene of the family sharing a meal by lantern light, the girls in their black bonnets and simple dresses, the boys in blue with perfect, blonde bowl haircuts but we could hardly jump up and retrieve our cameras from the car. We had both talked about doing an article on them for the National Geographic, which was mostly just conjecture, but here we were having dinner with people who are managing to avoid the crazy materialism we are obsessed with in the west. It was such a nice feeling that we were doing something very few people would ever experience, but even nicer to be reminded that there are friendly people all over the world.
After dinner we continued to talk about their lives and what we were doing. John asked where we were staying that night and I replied that I didn’t know, it would probably be a hotel. He offered to let us stay and I should have agreed immediately, sadly Vanessa and I don’t really know each other that well and she didn’t think I wanted to stay, so she said no.
After we said goodbye and set off to the main road in the dark we realised our mistake but it was too late. They would soon be in bed so we could hardly go back. John did say we would always be welcome, so maybe someday I will return, but who knows. We would have to settle for a night in a dingy Chinese Hotel in the capital, Belompan. What a great day.
A menonite buggy
leaving kismet, photo kids, new arrival, palencia?/late/marie sharp factory/blue hole pool/underwater current/drive to next cave/1 light/scared/muddy/menonite turning/4 miles in/chatting to john/up to nersery/chatting to abraham/back to johns/wrong turn/john + margret + 11 kids/14 to 7 months/3 boys/sat and chat in new house section/no photos/trad dress/vaccines/blonde/waching machine/corn grinder/drill/makes shutters/various carriages./horses and cows/bread fruit tree/chickens/dinner/silent prayer/rice/stew/soup/bread+corn syrup/pineapple and mango/kick in the head/well behaved/long hair/vanessa wife/lanterns/no photos/offer to stay/regrets/drive up to capital/cheap chinese hotel/vanessa asleep
Tags: eva, led flashlight, country pop, half an hour, Travel, hick, nearby, beard, belize, straw hat, rain, horse drawn buggy, salsa, eve, electricityBelize without a map
I finally got my oil changed on my last day in Mexico. I rotated the tyres, changed the air and oil filter and had a confusing conversation about the fuel filter in Spanish. I didn’t care I didn’t understand any more, it was time for country number four on my world tour. After 4 months in Mexico it was time to leave. I had a final breakfast at a local cafe and dumped about 40 coins for my 52 peso bill before heading off the to the border. After seeing all the Belizean cars queuing for fuel I thought it best that I get in the line as well, just as well, I would later learn that gas is $11 a gallon over the border. Why do the Americans complain?!?
The guard at the border hit me for $10 to leave and had the gall to suggest other tourist pay him $25 for the amazing “service” of pointing out where the car import office was. I don’t think so. I sorted out my paperwork and headed over into the free trade zone between the borders. I got my $5 wheel spray and waved off the guys attempt to sell me insurance. I couldn’t just drive through though as one of the customs ‘helpers’ was keen to point out. He jumped in and we went back to get my wheels sprayed, at least that’s where we were going until I told him, to his amazement, that I had already done it. He also wanted to sell me insurance but I said I had no cash. We turned around and went back to the immigration place. Somehow I got away without giving him any money.
I was given 30 days and the same for my car. My papers all in order I drove my car to the border where it was vaguely inspected by the disinterested guard. He mostly wanted to know how much my bike was worth. $100 if I was lucky, I didn’t mention the laptops, camera gear and guitar. All of this business was conducted in English which was nice, its always nice to be understood. I was soon through and went to the office over the border to pick up some insurance. Since its $29B for a week and only $60B for a month I went for the longer time*. You never know. Sadly I learned that the disease of speed bumps has spread to Belize too but the roads weren’t too bad, the lack of signs sent me off down a dirt track that I learned would have soon brought me to my destination but taking no chances, and possessing no map, I turned back to seek out the highway turning I had missed.
A hour or so later I was in Orange Walk and with some local currency in my hand happy to be able to buy a drink. I am slightly ashamed to say I was glad to see the Queens face on a bank note. Kinda feels like coming home somehow. Now should I stay or should I go. Accommodation options in Orange Walk were limited, and most people only stopped to go on the river trip to the local ruins. I had just come from 3 major Mayan ruins so wasn’t that bothered about staying. Belize city was only an hour and a half away with more options, certainly for accommodation so I picked up some supplies and got back on the highway. I say highway… it was a paved road. Mostly without potholes.
Outside the SEA hostel I met the Canadian guy I had been chatting to the previous night but some strange force made me keep going to my other choice, the Seaside Guest House. It sounded so tranquil, serene and peaceful. What could go wrong?
The gate was opened by some aging American dude who obviously had had a few too many beers. He was followed by an older American woman who was shouting at him. I had them pegged as other guests and hoped they wouldn’t cause a problem. I stood in the common area trying to get some service for 10 minutes but there was no one about. It looked like a cool hostel though, lots of drums everywhere and a great library. I found some staff upstairs and it turned out the drunk couple were the owners. Seems like they had been at this all week.
I met up with the other guests, got checked in and a group of us headed over to find some Chinese food. We managed to pick up a local bum who I had asked directions from, which ended up costing me a bottle of coke to get rid of him. We were also on the street it says specifically in the guidebooks not to walk down during the night. 6 people shouldn’t cause a problem, right? Belize city is pretty grotty, the roads are in terrible shape, people hassle you for change everywhere and there is too much trash. Shame really, they have some nice architecture and the working people are friendly enough.
Back at the hostel we found there were another group of guests checking in so we all moved upstairs with a few beers in an attempt to be social. Mitch, the owner, brought us up a couple of drums and we started talking about buying a batch of local rum. His partner Diana had been drunk and embarrassing downstairs with the new guests and she soon came up to have a chat. She then started ranting about being mugged at gunpoint and how the Belizean Tourist Board were going to close them down if they had any more complains. It seems the tourists have been complaining about the hostel. We all wondered why. The other guys seemed to find it highly amusing that Diana seemed to take a shine to me, but at least she was being nice.
It started raining outside and we all felt sorry for poor Mitch who was out getting our booze. He came back and we started doing some serious drinking. Everything was fine, we had the guitars and bongos going.
I found out Vanessa had the Canon 40D and we chatted about photography. She said she was a photographer but I soon caught her out on that one by finding out she didn’t know how to set the white balance :p Faker!
Then everything seemed to go wrong. Diana was getting increasingly drunk and shouting about tourists ripping her off. Mitch managed to calm her down and send her back to bed but she was soon back up and not only shouting at poor Mitch but also now accusing everyone upstairs of not paying our bills. We had a tab open downstairs so thought this wasn’t a problem. I got my guitar out too and was trying to teach Mitch a song when she came over, grabbed the bucket of ice and threw it all over him. I didn’t get wet but I moved my guitar into the wall. I wasn’t impressed!
The rest of the evening consisted of everyone else talking to both of them trying to calm them down but mostly just trying to get rid of them. Mitch wanted to stay with us and chill, Diana wanted to kill him. She came up and kicked the locked door in, was screaming and shouting. We wound up retreating to one of the dorms and whispering behind the doors. Even that wasn’t enough and we got told off for that too. It was a very weird night.
Mitch and Diana. More drama than Mexican Soap.
* 1 day – $12.50B / 2 weeks – $46B
oil change/breakfast/getting rid of change/queue at gas station/border/$25 guard/spray/belize border/insurance-12-30-46-60/wrong road-no signs/orange walk-atm/belize city/heat sink paste/chinese directions/meet the canadian outside SEA/finding hostel/bad roads/drunk owners/hangin downstairs/check in.park up/invited to dinner/olly.jo.vanessa./ATM-shower/belgian couple.john-laurie/walk to chineese/pick up bum for directions/coke/peotry back to hostel/new arrivals downstairs/few beers/row/uncomfortable/go up stairs/rain on baloncy/dog shit/bongos-mitch.diana/diana talking to me/rows restart/mitch goes for rum/guitar/throwing ice/vanessa photographer/diana accusing us of not paying/getting weird/kicking door in/hiding in dorm room/3.3-am
Tags: shame, peace, american, locals, belize, s eve, board, set, oil filter, mexico