Photographing Every Country in the World, Overland.

Belize 2008

Photo of the Day

Transport in is sometimes basic. These children get a ride and an interesting view of the country on the way.                                                                                                                     

01Jul2008_0327  truck copy

Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,

What every girl needs

Coban_30Jul2008_0016[ad#ad-1]

Tags: , , , , , ,

Not a bad place to get stuck

Barton Creek Outpost,

How not to eat a .

Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0057pepperBarton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0054pepperBarton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0056pepperBarton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0051

The beautiful Natalie.Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0037 natalie

Chilling in the .

Barton Creek Outpost - 2nd shoot_16Jul2008_0689

Tarzan’s with a monkey voyeur

Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0073 Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0075

There is Tarzan!

Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0131

Just relax Katrijn. A bit more….

Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0294

Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0298 snail

Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0321

Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0300 canoe

We went to check the car and get Eva’s bag.

Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0314 Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0325

Katrijn had a wound on her ankle which she was trying to keep dry. Luckily she had a strong man around!

Belize_15Jul2008_0364

Nice place to park.

Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0327

We didn’t dare cross this.

Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0391

Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0399 Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0395

On the way back we stopped to chat to a local girl called Chariot who was from Florida.

Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0404 Chariot

Eva tried to charm me into losing.

Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0411 Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0420

Eva left early so Katrijn and I amused ourselves by switching positions on the camera.

Barton Creek Outpost Photoshoot - Belize_15Jul2008_0431

There was no shower. It was …. fresh!

Barton Creek Outpost Photoshoot - Belize_15Jul2008_0475 cold Barton Creek Outpost Photoshoot - Belize_15Jul2008_0466Barton Creek Outpost Photoshoot - Belize_15Jul2008_0545 duck

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Welcome to Guatemala

Flores,

No breakfast for us, Katrijn and I off early for a very sweaty walk back to the car. Once there we found that Bill had patched up my leak with some JB Weld and we poured in a quart of oil and held our breath. It seemed to hold so in went another gallon and we ran it for 5 minutes. It was already roasting so didn’t take long to get very hot. It seemed we would be able to leave that day.

I took a few of Bill and his wife Katherine since they wouldn’t take anything for their trouble. I found out Bill is from Hendersonville in North Carolina, the place I spent my very strange thanksgiving last year. I promised to send them a copy once I got Internet access.

16Jul2008_0830

We left their little slice of heaven and drove gingerly along the rutted track, inevitably we snagged a few on the way and each time I hopped out to survey the potential damage. Luckily I was careful enough to make it back to the paved highway, from now on it would be plain sailing.

We gave a lift to a local into San Ignacio which was much closer than I thought and we decided what to do. It was 11.30am by now and San Ignacio didn’t look that exciting. We had some , worked out a few financial sums to make sure we had enough cash and headed towards the border. Hopefully we would be in Flores sipping beer by the lake very soon.

It was only 9 miles to the border and it didn’t cause any major problems. I got myself stamped out of , canceled my car importation, paid my $37.50B and drove over no mans land towards the border. You have to drive through a building that sprays your car which proved completely ineffectual as by the time I had the windows up it had sprayed mostly the air in front of my car and little else.

No was required for me, I stood in the line behind a tiny lady and paid Q10 (€1) for my 90 . Next I did the paper work for my car which required my title and a copy of my title and passport. It cost Q40 which was payable at the bank and I was given a sticker to place in my window. A border guard checked my paperwork and after paying a further Q50 cross the we were in and I was on country 5 of my trip.

The roads were worse than which seemed strange and half of the trip over to Flores was on a rough, but mostly flat dirt track. I was just happy to get through the border in only an hour and relived my oil pan was still holding out.

I still wasn’t driving through the deep I was hoping for, most of the roads look pretty much alike, houses and shops every once in a while and the usual hazards of dogs, horses and motorbikes. Flores was only a couple of hours away and a major tourist stop. It sits in the middle of a lake and we were early enough to check into best and most popular , Los Amigos.

We met Eva in the street and decided to give the tourist stuff a miss and spend the next day chilling out. I had ten million to process and lots of entries to write. Seemed like this was the place to do it, and when that was too boring I could go and visit the mythical city of Tikal. More ruins…. I think my last for a good while!

walk to car/bill and katherine/  jb weld//lift to local//-/hour at border/ok roads/flores/met eva/los amogos/shower/

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Breaking down in the jungle

DAY 301!

Barton Creek,

I packed up and decided to head west with Katrijn and Eva. I was going to have to go to no matter what, there is no vehicle ferry to Honduras. I would have a dilemma soon though since it seemed that is where all my new friends from Caye Caulker would be heading next.

Thankfully my van was still where I left it in City and we drove off without incident. It was so boring Eva fell asleep.

Belize_14Jul2008_0383

After only a couple of hours we turned off the highway onto a dirt track on the way up to Barton Creek. It is an off the beaten track gem which we were all keen to see. The road was pretty rough though, but nothing too bad I thought. We hit a couple of since I don’t have the best clearance but it seemed to be no worse than the occasional road I had done in Baja California.

Eventually we turned off that road onto one that was even narrower. We were getting close we thought. Then it all went wrong.

Or maybe we were saved.

We saw the sign for the cave pointing right but all thought it pointed left. We went right.

We came to a deep creek which I didn’t want to cross so turned around and came back to the sign.

We realised our and turned around.

This was  the worst place to do it and ended up getting stuck on a steep slope and nearly dropping down a cliff.

Belize_14Jul2008_0389

Fortunately, a local family was passing by shortly after in their 4WD and after pushing and sitting on the hood without much luck told us they would come back with a .

When they came back Bill was crawling underneath and saw that I had also knocked a hole in my oil pan.

Bad news!

Belize_14Jul2008_0386

Bill hitched up his and Mikey pulled us out of the drive and we parked up near Bills house and considered our options. The hole wasn’t too bad so we drained the oil and Bill offered to pick us up some more oil in town the next day. Then we would see if some JB Weld would be good enough to get us out of the and back to a welder.

The weren’t that impressed, but what could they do? :p

Belize_15Jul2008_0345 Belize_15Jul2008_0343 Belize_15Jul2008_0339

Nick points out the fact that my Hayes manual was upside down.Belize_15Jul2008_0349

Bert was a friendly dog.  A little too friendly. This shot doesn’t show his red rocket.

Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0067

With only a slight delay we made it to the outpost where Edwin was there to cater for our every need. There was a Dutch and sister also there, Jan and Natalie so they showed us how to swing into the creek.

Belize_15Jul2008_0359 Belize_15Jul2008_0358

It was a great place, but with a hole in my oil pan and no oil. How long would I be stuck there?

Tags: , , , , , , ,

The tragedy and the Irony* : Facebook sucks.

Caye Caulker,

My mum doesn’t facebook. She’s one friend I don’t need to add. She can read my to find out what I’m up to since I now don’t really do much email. That’s fine, facebook is personal.

Yesterday three from arrive in the afternoon. I told them I was Swedish to appear more interesting and to see if they really believed me. They still haven’t got it,who wants to be British on a island full of Poms. Different is good. We hang out, chat, go for some that night. Great .

n197802546_41058382_6746

Caroline and Krishna

Next day we hang out and chat some more. My frog and I persuade Caroline to come down to the for a beer and we start chatting about the which turns to talk of how some are brothels on occasion, like in Africa…

This isn’t going where you think :p

Well I say to Caroline about how she could never do that but it turns out she did. She was in and did a 3 months overland trip too. We chat about and the music and dancing. The usual fun of reminding each other of the great times in a shared experience of a place. I tell her that I saw the Eclipse in ’06 thinking this would impress her even more. Hey, I’m not shallow, it was a great thing to see! :p

She impresses me by telling me that she also saw it and we chat about where she spent her 3 months. I ask if she was a volunteer and when she says ‘yes’ a trail of lightbulbs went off in my head.

On my last day I went to a volunteer party… did you got to a party a few weeks after the eclipse? – Yes

I describe it perfectly for her. The court yard, the beer place, the music, the dancing. We also went off to a club together after the party.

So weird.

It turns out she also went to the same place on St Patricks Day in Accra a couple of weeks before, the Irish pub with the live band. We made a pile of and danced on the until they felt like velvet slippers when we were done. Such an awesome night.

IMG_1435

It is a small world but I wouldn’t want to it.

So why does facebook suck?

Because now you meet people, you make them your friend and maybe someday you notice they’re in the same country and you can track them down. We’re all becoming ultra connected, how can we manage all those narrow threads of brief connections manageable. and mobiles will making ‘pinging’ your friends a normal thing. Its cool to think you will know who will be in the pub that night without asking them but then so will the police if we continue towards this dangerous path along the shattered road of civil liberties.

The chances of people meeting again, randomly reconnecting across the continents is a spectacular luxury we have  in the west, but one that is doomed to die. I met a girl called Rachel in New Zealand, Australia and Indonesia, the second and third time only briefly, but in the middle of nowhere. It was such fun. Maybe a well trodden route and not entirely unexpected but to after 25 months is so amazing.

So guard your friend requests. Don’t make it a quest to gather up as many as you can. More that a few hundred are not your friends, they’re just names, more than a thousand is a full fledged hobby.  How you people make time to make new friends I never know. I guess I should try being an attractive girl to find out.

Defriend a few people right now and see if you miss them… they wont mind, they wont even notice you’re gone. Then maybe you’ll bump into a old friend you stupidly failed to make the first time.

So where is the tragedy? That I had to wait so long to really meet Caroline. She’s great. Rest assured I have not fallen in love with her over a weird coincidence, indeed she was  freaked out by the whole thing. Maybe she thought I was stalking her across the world :p We passed and didn’t connect.

The tragedy was that I didn’t make any impression on her the first time. Although she lost her she doesn’t appear in any of mine from the two nights in Accra. I hung back a bit, I chatted to some people but I wasn’t really there until I started dancing. As you get older you have less to lose and more to gain from being outrageous. We all want to be remembered, if only temporarily, because one day that’s all we will be.

So I will make it my goal now on to find as many people as I can to charm, encourage, humour, help and impress. I’m trying but I need to try harder. I need to be more aggressive than I am, less watching from the wings when I should be pushing towards the center of the stage. You should try the same. Who wants to be forgettable?

I believe we’re like a half marble bouncing around in a marble bag. You may never meet other half but you never will unless you try to connect with every marble in the bag. Just don’t add them all to facebook, it crashes if you have more than a million friends.

So I guess its really not facebook that sucks but me. I shan’t cancel my account just yet.

You’d impress me right now by subscribing and telling 3 more people to subscribe, my is now my sole income. I’m trying to overland to every country remember, its not free.

*If you want to add me in facebook I’m , put something original on my wall. Mum, don’t even try!

Comments are back on.

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , ,

Hunting the elusive Manatee

Caye Caulker,

Well, I enjoyed the Hawk snorkeling trip so much I went again, I even got a discount, but then I figured I could have gone diving for a few dollars more… oops!. Maybe this time I would get lucky with the Manatees!

Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2290 Frog

Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2303 max frankie michelle
Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2312 steve and steve
Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2316
Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2147
Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2133 manatee michelle
Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2148
Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2150
Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2163
Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2166
Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2333 shark

Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2379 frankie Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2306 michelle nikki Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2390 Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2181Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2204 Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2206 Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2230 Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2436 Caye Caulker_13Jul2008_2441

Tags: , , , , , ,

Memories of Caye Caulker

Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_2548 Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_2540 frog krishna Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_2539 caroline Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_2525annamik Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_2511 michelle ryan

Belize Caye Caulker_10Jul2008_1749 Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_2510 ronnie nikki Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_2494 ollie chris Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_2492 michelle trevor lisa Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_2480 jordan Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_2465 ronnie Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_1813 lucy Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_1835 lisa Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_1809 Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_1804 Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_1788 Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_1786 Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_1775Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_1784 Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_1761 Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_2287 haircut mark nikkiCaye Caulker_12Jul2008_2264 krishna mark

Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_2261

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

A week on a Caribbean Island

Caye Caulker,

One week would never be enough but it would have to do. Caye Caulker isn’t the ‘la isla bonita’ Madonna sings about but it was a beautiful spot all the same. The time was right, I arranged to take Katrijn and Eva over to Flores in and just about managed to catch the boat where I am writing this post.

What a great week. , storms, lots of sunshine, warm water but mostly my time was filled with hanging out with a great group of people. After a day at a boring hotel I moved into Bella’s and started having lots of fun. I admit the other guys were having even more fun, but then they were drinking all hours of the day and I didn’t want or need to compete with that.

Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_2278Caye Caulker_12Jul2008_2282

We did lots of relaxing at the split where they have a great spot for relaxing on the broken pier and a rickety dive for showing off to the . Alcohol and dive boards are not a good combination, but highly entertaining.

Cay Caulker_08Jul2008_1465

I wasn’t just hanging out slacking though. I went out on the free kayaks with Jordan to try my luck at some fishing which was fun. Didn’t catch a damn thing but he still managed to sell me his rod and reel for $30 us. I got a good deal :) Caye Caulker_10Jul2008_2053

The snorkeling trip with the boys from the Hawk were highly recommended too, it seemed everyone from the ended up going and how can I argue with figures like that? They sail out to the reef and make three stops. Hopefully sighting some Manatees on the way. We didn’t get that lucky, there were 2 hanging out but the group before us ended up scaring them away. I put my underwater camera to some good use though.

Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_1989Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_2012Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_1991 Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_1975 Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_2025 Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_2036 Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_1977 Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_1960

Nikki shooting me shooting her.

Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_1884 Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_1893 ollie Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_1912 steve Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_1884 big steve

You know what they saw about and alcohol though, drinking rum punch while hanging off the at the back is not such a great idea, but it seemed it at the time.

Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_2048Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_2050

There were a few hard nights of drinking to get through too. I should stress I mostly managed to resist the pull of cheap rum and didn’t have a single . Lots of the guys there ended up missing most of the night after.

Caye Caulker_11Jul2008_1949
Lucy and Jordan display the damage. 7 bottles of rum.

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

See the girls run

Caye Caulker,

Its only a Portuguese  Man ‘O War!

Belize Caye Caulker_10Jul2008_1756

Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,

Changing rooms

Caye Caulker,

I moved. Great view from my window.

09Jul2008_1736

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Heading to the beach

Caye Caulker,

I filled my and headed down to the pier in time for the noon ferry over to Caye Caulker, a little strip of land that I should probably have gone over to the week before if Vanessa ‘t distracted me :p At least the seemed more reasonable, the water was even instead of the brown I was used to seeing. Maybe I would be diving the Hole in a ?!?

bluehole
The Hole

The ferry was 50% so I guessed it was a pretty popular spot, I paid $20 us return and sat listening to Archaolgogy students chat to a Norwegian couple about their  plans to visit Europe. An hour or so later we we at the island and I off with a vague idea of where I wanted to stay. Daisy’s place smelt of mildew so I settled for Marins.  Shared shower, double room for $15 us. I was hoping to meet up with Katarija again who had told me she would be heading over about the same time but a walk around town didn’t make her appear.

I was pulled up short by a local guy, Charles, who made me feel bad by trying to brush him off. “Relax man, meet the !” he told me, so I stopped to chat. Two minutes later he was trying to sell me and telling me where the island brothels were. So much for being friendly.

We’re only on a strip of land 700 meters by 100 so its pretty small. Up at the ‘split’ there’s a cool bar with a diving and a broken up pier where the lie basking like all day. Its hot, sunny but with a fresh breeze, the hurricane near Florida was blowing all the way over. Not a bad place to for a .

Cay Caulker_07Jul2008_1730

Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,

Up the creek

Orange Walk,

The night in the restaurant wasn’t too bad after all, and you can’t beat $5 us for a place to stay. We were up early getting prepared for the river trip up to the Lamanai ruins which we had booked with the river lodge. It was $40 us, the same as everywhere else in town, but these guys started further downstream which meant you got another 7 miles of wildlife to spot on the way up. The river was high right now too, check out the breeze block walkway to our hotel.

Belize_06Jul2008_1383 Belize_06Jul2008_1384

There wasn’t a huge amount to see really, but then we had just spent the day at the zoo! :p  A few iguanas and crocs but not too many . Why the tour left at 9am and not earlier didn’t make much sense but then I wasn’t running it. It was going to be a hot day either way.

Belize_05Jul2008_0943Belize_05Jul2008_1082 Belize_05Jul2008_1046 Belize_05Jul2008_1017 Belize_05Jul2008_0999 Belize_05Jul2008_0984 Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1291 Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1251Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1252

During I took a swig of my Sprite and was rewarded with something that had crawled or flew into the bottle. This normally wouldn’t be so bad but it then proceeded  to sting me inside my throat! The pain was excruciating and I could feel it moving around in my neck. Several cups of water didn’t seem to dislodge it but I was worried about the potential swelling. I blagged a anti-histamine from the Canadian in our group and was reassured to see she also had a syringe for when/if I stopped breathing. Luckily I felt fine, if very uncomfortable for the rest of the day.

Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1247Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1235 Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1191 Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1186Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1193 Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1207 Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1184 Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1178Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1338 Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1139Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1172 Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1281Belize_05Jul2008_1136 Belize Lamanai Boat Tour_05Jul2008_1366

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , ,

Jaguars baby!

Orange Walk,

I went to bed late after sorting out another million , certainly later than Vanessa who walk into the cheap hotel room, fell into bed and didn’t stir afterwards. She still thought it would be a good idea to wake me up as soon as she did though instead of leaving me in peace until 10 minutes before she was packed and ready to go… We had a chat, I don’t think it will happen again :p

We were out by 8.30am, possibly a new record for this trip and went off to eat a breakfast burrito by the market. Just the one though. We asked for another and were told they were finished. The lack of flour in is getting rather annoying. We picked up some fruit in the local market after making it through the lackluster police checkpoint and then hit the road back north. Its quite a few hour back up to Orange Walk with not much on the way. I made an attempt to pull over for a on the way but the were too annoying and the air too hot. Its about 32 degrees in the afternoon now, far to hot to stand still for long.

We did stop off at the zoo on the way and after paying the $8 to get in saw a of local in nearly natural environments. Vanessa and I had a fun few hours blasting away with our telephotos. Here are a few highlights…. I love my telephoto :)

Belize Zoo_04Jul2008_0876Belize Zoo_04Jul2008_0900 Belize Zoo_04Jul2008_0863

Monkey Balls! :p  Belize Zoo_04Jul2008_0787Belize Zoo_04Jul2008_0857 Belize Zoo_04Jul2008_0776 Belize Zoo_04Jul2008_0727 Belize Zoo_04Jul2008_0645Belize Zoo_04Jul2008_0714 Belize Zoo_04Jul2008_0642Belize Zoo_04Jul2008_0564 Belize Zoo_04Jul2008_0629 Belize Zoo_04Jul2008_0652 Belize Zoo_04Jul2008_0819

Up in city we went looking for a place to stay and settled on a place by the river that had no rooms but would put us in the restaurant for only $10US until we got a room the following day. Should be fun, as long as the doesn’t go on too long :p

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Hopkins, Belize

Belize_03Jul2008_0381 bike Belize_03Jul2008_0410 crab Belize_03Jul2008_0417 airstream

Tags: , , , , ,

Chilling by the beach

Belize

Just a quick update while I wait for my turn on the connection. I’m currently about to leave Hopkins in the middle of with a charming girl (they do exist!) called Vanessa on a trip back to the north to see some caves, temples and wildlife. Staying on the beach wasn’t a great success, there has been so much recently the normally green water is brown and churning up foam! Hopefully the will improve on the way into . I will have to fulfil my minor ambition of swimming in the Caribbean when/if I get to Honduras, although that might then be the bay of Honduras. This geography thing is so confusing!

01Jul2008_0282_1
Spashing down the Manatee highway!
Tags: , , , , , ,

3 thrills a day

Hopkins,

Visiting a factory isn’t really very thrilling but its interesting to see. Marie Sharp is a Belizean legend and her hot sauce is on over table in the country. Pop into the factory for a tour if you’re passing that way. 01Jul2008_0343 marie sharps 01Jul2008_0344 marie sharps 01Jul2008_0346 marie sharpsBelize_03Jul2008_0427marie sharpsBelize_03Jul2008_0429marie sharps

After that we went swimming in the Hole park. Nice and fresh. Vanessa got a thrill when we floated down the river and were nearly sucked into the underwater tunnel. I saved her :)

Belize_03Jul2008_0434 vanessas bum

Then we went nearly a mile into the cave with only a small LED flashlight. That was fun. Vanessa was kinda scared :p

Belize_03Jul2008_1408 blue hole Belize_03Jul2008_1418 blue hole cave Belize_03Jul2008_0460 blue hole cave Belize_03Jul2008_0527 blue hole cave

Then the biggest and best thrill was saved until last but we didn’t take any . We couldn’t and I will explain why.

When we had driven down to Hopkins a before we passed some people in a horse drawn buggy who we assumed to be Amish. We soon learned that they were Menonites, and they had a sizeable community out in the . On the way back up we decided to go and have a proper look.

4 miles up a dirt track from the main road we found a of farms and houses. No poles or were about but there were quite a few people. We stopped to chat to a local on the road and asked if there was any where we could get some food . The community didn’t have anything as advanced as a restaurant but he suggested we pull into someone’s drive and eat with them.

This seemed a bit crazy, to just invite yourself to dinner with a random family but when I suggested we choose his house he told us to give him and let us know where he lived. We carried on up the road to explore some more.

Belize_04Jul2008_0351

Vanessa and I wanted to the people but knew this would be rather rude and managed to restrain ourselves. We turned around and stopped again to chat to a guy loading up some lumber at the lumber yard. He was also dressed the same as all the men in the area. Straw hat, shirt and a long beard.

Abraham, it turned out, was the of John, the man who had invited us to dinner and we waited a while talking about their life in the village and what we were doing in the area. At least until we had to move out of the way of horse and cart that wanted to get past. This was the closest to a jam that you can get around here.

We drove back to Johns house and met his wife Margaret and learned they had 11 children running around, ranging from 7 months to 14 years old. The three boys were outnumbered by their sisters slightly but they were all curious as to what we were doing and what we looked like. I have no idea what they thought of my long hair but they all stared when I took off my hat.

John was building onto his new house so we sat in that and talked some more. Some of the children had had some vaccinations that morning so were somewhat afraid of strangers. They also dressed in the traditional way and John explained how they bought cloth and made their own .

He took us on a mini-tour of their farm and showed us their horse drawn washing machine and how they could change the belts around to power the corn grinder and even a drill. Chickens were running everywhere in the yard, jumping over broken farm equipment and being chased by the barefoot children.

In the field they kept horses for transport and cows for dairy produce. The Menonites are all vegetarians but they are not against using to make . They must be quite well off since they came and bought 3,000 acres in the valley. 35 families lived there and they had only been there 12 years but were well established with a church, school and market.

A spring from the hills provides all the families with a gravity fed clean water supply and the land was green and fertile, perfect for farming. The Menonites provide 80% of the countries local produce and with no real costs for gasoline or other resources were in a great position to profit from the worldwide increases in food prices. I only hope they don’t also suffer from this, people can get very jealous from others’ success.

We learned they sometimes even had people coming to rob them with guns and someone was shot through the hand a few years back. Now they don’t keep too much in the houses.

Dinner was finally ready so we washed our handed and all 15 of us squeezed around the table, the adults at either end. Vanessa my ‘wife’ and I sat together, we both felt it best not to correct them on this point, it was hardly relevant.

We bowed our heads for a silent prayer and passed around the bowls for a simple meal of vegetable stew, rice, cottage cheese and soup. The children were learning English in school but their main language is Low German which they would mutter amongst themselves. They didn’t really speak to us but we knew at least some of the older ones understood what we were talking about.

Vanessa and I were desperate to this beautiful scene of the family sharing a meal by lantern light, the in their black bonnets and simple dresses, the boys in with perfect, blonde bowl haircuts but we could hardly jump up and retrieve our cameras from the car. We had both talked about doing an article on them for the National Geographic, which was mostly just conjecture, but here we were having dinner with people who are managing to avoid the crazy materialism we are obsessed with in the west. It was such a nice feeling that we were doing something very few people would ever experience, but even nicer to be reminded that there are friendly people all over the world.

After dinner we continued to talk about their lives and what we were doing. John asked where we were staying that night and I replied that I didn’t know, it would probably be a hotel. He offered to let us stay and I should have agreed immediately, sadly Vanessa and I don’t really know each other that well and she didn’t think I wanted to stay, so she said no.

After we said goodbye and off to the main road in the dark we realised our but it was too late. They would soon be in bed so we could hardly go back. John did say we would always be welcome, so maybe someday I will return, but who knows. We would have to settle for a night in a dingy Chinese Hotel in the capital, Belompan. What a great day.

01Jul2008_0287 buggy

A menonite buggy

leaving kismet, kids, new arrival, palencia?/late/marie sharp factory/ hole /underwater current/drive to next cave/1 light/scared/muddy/menonite turning/4 miles in/chatting to john/up to nersery/chatting to abraham/back to johns/wrong turn/john + margret + 11 kids/14 to 7 months/3 boys/sat and chat in new house section/no /trad dress/vaccines/blonde/waching machine/corn grinder/drill/makes shutters/various carriages./horses and cows/bread fruit tree/chickens/dinner/silent prayer/rice/stew/soup/bread+corn syrup/pineapple and mango/kick in the head/well behaved/long hair/vanessa wife/lanterns/no /offer to stay/regrets/drive up to capital/cheap chinese hotel/vanessa asleep

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Belize without a map

City,

I finally got my oil changed on my last day in . I rotated the tyres, changed the air and oil filter and had a confusing conversation about the fuel filter in Spanish. I didn’t care I didn’t understand any more, it was time for country number four on my world tour. After 4 months in it was time to leave. I had a final breakfast at a local cafe and dumped about 40 coins for my 52 peso bill before heading off the to the border. After seeing all the Belizean queuing for fuel I thought it best that I get in the line as well, just as well, I would later learn that gas is $11 a gallon over the border. Why do the Americans complain?!?

The guard at the border hit me for $10 to leave and had the gall to suggest other tourist pay him $25 for the amazing “service” of pointing out where the car import office was. I don’t think so. I sorted out my paperwork and headed over into the free trade zone between the . I got my $5 spray and waved off the guys attempt to sell me . I couldn’t just drive through though as ‘helpers’ was keen to point out. He jumped in and we went back to get my sprayed, at least that’s where we were going until I told him, to his , that I had already done it. He also wanted to sell me but I said I had no cash. We turned around and went back to the place. Somehow I got away without giving him any .

I was given 30 days and the same for my car. My papers all in order I drove my car to the border where it was vaguely inspected by the disinterested guard. He mostly wanted to know how much my bike was worth. $100 if I was lucky, I didn’t mention the , camera gear and guitar. All of this business was conducted in English which was nice, its always nice to be understood. I was soon through and went to the office over the border to pick up some . Since its $29B for a week and only $60B for a month I went for the longer time*. You never know.  Sadly I learned that the disease of speed bumps has spread to too but the roads weren’t too bad, the lack of signs sent me off down a dirt track that I learned would have soon brought me to my destination but taking no chances, and possessing no , I turned back to seek out the highway turning I had missed.

A hour or so later I was in Orange Walk and with some local currency in my hand happy to be able to buy a drink. I am slightly ashamed to say I was glad to see the Queens face on a bank note. Kinda feels like coming home somehow. Now should I stay or should I go. Accommodation options in Orange Walk were limited, and most people only stopped to go on the river trip to the local ruins. I had just come from 3 major Mayan ruins so wasn’t that bothered about staying. city was only an hour and a half away with more options, certainly for accommodation so I picked up some supplies and got back on the highway. I say highway… it was a paved road. Mostly without potholes.

Outside the I met the Canadian guy I had been chatting to the previous night but some strange force made me keep going to my other choice, the Seaside Guest House. It sounded so tranquil, serene and peaceful. What could go wrong?

The gate was opened by some aging dude who obviously had had a few too many . He was followed by an older woman who was shouting at him. I had them pegged as other guests and  hoped they wouldn’t cause a problem. I stood in the common area trying to get some service for 10 minutes but there was no one about. It looked like a cool though, lots of everywhere and a great library. I found some staff upstairs and it turned out the drunk couple were the owners. Seems like they had been at this all week.

I met up with the other guests, got checked in and a group of us headed over to find some Chinese food. We managed to pick up a local bum who I had asked directions from, which ended up costing me a bottle of coke to get rid of him. We were also on the street it says specifically in the guidebooks not to walk down during the night. 6 people shouldn’t cause a problem, right? city is pretty grotty, the roads are in terrible shape, people you for change everywhere and there is too much trash. really, they have some nice architecture and the working people are friendly enough.

Back at the we found there were another group of guests checking in so we all moved upstairs with a few in an attempt to be social. Mitch, the owner, brought us up a couple of and we started talking about buying a batch of local rum. His partner Diana had been drunk and embarrassing downstairs with the new guests and she soon came up to have a chat. She then started ranting about being mugged at gunpoint and how the Belizean Tourist were going to close them down if they had any more complains. It seems the have been complaining about the . We all wondered why. The other guys seemed to find it highly amusing that Diana seemed to take a shine to me, but at least she was being nice.

01Jul2008_0213 mitch

It started raining outside and we all felt sorry for poor Mitch who was out getting our booze. He came back and we started doing some serious drinking. Everything was fine, we had the and bongos going.

01Jul2008_0210 01Jul2008_0201

I found out Vanessa had the Canon 40D and we chatted about photography. She said she was a photographer but I soon caught her out on that one by finding out she didn’t know how to the white balance :p Faker!

Then everything seemed to go wrong. Diana was getting increasingly drunk and shouting about ripping her off. Mitch managed to calm her down and send her back to bed but she was soon back up and not only shouting at poor Mitch but also now accusing everyone upstairs of not paying our bills. We had a tab open downstairs so thought this wasn’t a problem. I got my guitar out too and was trying to teach Mitch a song when she came over, grabbed the bucket of ice and threw it all over him. I didn’t get wet but I moved my guitar into the wall. I wasn’t impressed!

The rest of the evening consisted of everyone else talking to both of them trying to calm them down but mostly just trying to get rid of them. Mitch wanted to stay with us and , Diana wanted to kill him. She came up and kicked the locked door in, was screaming and shouting. We wound up retreating to and whispering behind the doors. Even that wasn’t enough and we got told off for that too. It was a very weird night.

01Jul2008_0200

Mitch and Diana. More drama than Mexican Soap.

* 1 day – $12.50B / 2 weeks – $46B

oil change/breakfast/getting rid of change/ at gas station/border/$25 guard/spray/ border/-12-30-46-60/wrong road-no signs/orange walk-/ city/heat sink paste/chinese directions/meet the canadian outside /finding /bad roads/drunk owners/hangin downstairs/check in.park up/invited to dinner/olly.jo.vanessa./-shower/belgian couple.john-laurie/walk to chineese/pick up bum for directions/coke/peotry back to /new arrivals downstairs/few /row/uncomfortable/go up stairs/ on baloncy/dog shit/bongos-mitch.diana/diana talking to me/rows restart/mitch goes for rum/guitar/throwing ice/vanessa photographer/diana accusing us of not paying/getting weird/kicking door in/hiding in dorm room/3.3-am

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,