Belize 2008


Transport in Belize is sometimes basic. These children get a ride and an interesting view of the country on the way.                                                                                                                     

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Barton Creek Outpost, Belize

How not to eat a chili.

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The beautiful Natalie.Barton Creek Outpost - Belize_15Jul2008_0037 natalie

Chilling in the Jungle.

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Tarzan’s toilet with a monkey voyeur

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There is Tarzan!

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Just relax Katrijn. A bit more….

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We went to check the car and get Eva’s bag.

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Katrijn had a wound on her ankle which she was trying to keep dry. Luckily she had a strong man around!

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Nice place to park.

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We didn’t dare cross this.

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On the way back we stopped to chat to a local girl called Chariot who was from Florida.

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Eva tried to charm me into losing.

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Eva left early so Katrijn and I amused ourselves by switching positions on the camera.

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There was no shower. It was …. fresh!

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Flores, Guatemala

No breakfast for us, Katrijn and I set off early for a very sweaty walk back to the car. Once there we found that Bill had patched up my leak with some JB Weld and we poured in a quart of oil and held our breath. It seemed to hold so in went another gallon and we ran it for 5 minutes. It was already roasting so didn’t take long to get very hot. It seemed we would be able to leave that day.

I took a few photos of Bill and his wife Katherine since they wouldn’t take anything for their trouble. I found out Bill is from Hendersonville in North Carolina, the place I spent my very strange thanksgiving last year. I promised to send them a copy once I got Internet access.

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We left their little slice of heaven and drove gingerly along the rutted track, inevitably we snagged a few rocks on the way and each time I hopped out to survey the potential damage. Luckily I was careful enough to make it back to the paved highway, from now on it would be plain sailing.

We gave a lift to a local into San Ignacio which was much closer than I thought and we decided what to do. It was 11.30am by now and San Ignacio didn’t look that exciting. We had some lunch, worked out a few financial sums to make sure we had enough cash and headed towards the border. Hopefully we would be in Flores sipping beer by the lake very soon.

It was only 9 miles to the border and it didn’t cause any major problems. I got myself stamped out of Belize, canceled my car importation, paid my $37.50B and drove over no mans land towards the Guatemalan border. You have to drive through a building that sprays your car which proved completely ineffectual as by the time I had the windows up it had sprayed mostly the air in front of my car and little else.

No visa was required for me, I stood in the line behind a tiny Guatemalan lady and paid Q10 (€1) for my 90 visa. Next I did the paper work for my car which required my title and a copy of my title and passport. It cost Q40 which was payable at the nearby bank and I was given a sticker to place in my window. A border guard checked my paperwork and after paying a further Q50 cross the bridge we were in Guatemala and I was on country 5 of my trip.

The roads were worse than Belize which seemed strange and half of the trip over to Flores was on a rough, but mostly flat dirt track. I was just happy to get through the border in only an hour and relived my oil pan was still holding out.

I still wasn’t driving through the deep jungle I was hoping for, most of the roads look pretty much alike, houses and shops every once in a while and the usual hazards of dogs, horses and motorbikes. Flores was only a couple of hours away and a major tourist stop. It sits in the middle of a lake and we were early enough to check into one of the best and most popular hostels, Los Amigos.

We met Eva in the street and decided to give the tourist stuff a miss and spend the next day chilling out. I had ten million photos to process and lots of blog entries to write. Seemed like this was the place to do it, and when that was too boring I could go and visit the mythical city of Tikal. More ruins…. I think my last for a good while!

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DAY 301!

Barton Creek, Belize

I packed up and decided to head west with Katrijn and Eva. I was going to have to go to Guatemala no matter what, there is no vehicle ferry to Honduras. I would have a dilemma soon though since it seemed that is where all my new friends from Caye Caulker would be heading next.

Thankfully my van was still where I left it in Belize City and we drove off without incident. It was so boring Eva fell asleep.

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After only a couple of hours we turned off the highway onto a dirt track on the way up to Barton Creek. It is an off the beaten track gem which we were all keen to see. The road was pretty rough though, but nothing too bad I thought. We hit a couple of rocks since I don’t have the best clearance but it seemed to be no worse than the occasional road I had done in Baja California.

Eventually we turned off that road onto one that was even narrower. We were getting close we thought. Then it all went wrong.

Or maybe we were saved.

We saw the sign for the cave pointing right but all thought it pointed left. We went right.

We came to a deep creek which I didn’t want to cross so turned around and came back to the sign.

We realised our mistake and turned around.

This was  the worst place to do it and ended up getting stuck on a steep slope and nearly dropping down a cliff.

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Fortunately, a local family was passing by shortly after in their 4WD and after pushing and sitting on the hood without much luck told us they would come back with a rope.

When they came back Bill was crawling underneath and saw that I had also knocked a hole in my oil pan.

Bad news!

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Bill hitched up his rope and Mikey pulled us out of the drive and we parked up near Bills house and considered our options. The hole wasn’t too bad so we drained the oil and Bill offered to pick us up some more oil in town the next day. Then we would see if some JB Weld would be good enough to get us out of the jungle and back to a welder.

The girls weren’t that impressed, but what could they do? :p

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Nick points out the fact that my Hayes manual was upside down.Belize_15Jul2008_0349

Bert was a friendly dog.  A little too friendly. This shot doesn’t show his red rocket.

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With only a slight delay we made it to the outpost where Edwin was there to cater for our every need. There was a Dutch brother and sister also there, Jan and Natalie so they showed us how to swing into the creek.

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It was a great place, but with a hole in my oil pan and no oil. How long would I be stuck there?



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Caye Caulker,

My mum doesn’t facebook. She’s one friend I don’t need to add. She can read my blog to find out what I’m up to since I now don’t really do much email. That’s fine, facebook is personal.

Yesterday three girls from England arrive in the afternoon. I told them I was Swedish to appear more interesting and to see if they really believed me. They still haven’t got it,who wants to be British on a island full of Poms. Different is good. We hang out, chat, go for some drinks that night. Great girls.

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Caroline and Krishna

Next day we hang out and chat some more. My mate frog and I persuade Caroline to come down to the Karaoke for a beer and we start chatting about the hostel which turns to talk of how some hostels are brothels on occasion, like in Africa…

This isn’t going where you think :p

Well I say to Caroline about how she could never do that but it turns out she did. She was in Ghana and did a 3 months overland trip too. We chat about Ghana and the music and dancing. The usual fun of reminding each other of the great times in a shared experience of a place. I tell her that I saw the Eclipse in ‘06 thinking this would impress her even more. Hey, I’m not shallow, it was a great thing to see! :p

She impresses me by telling me that she also saw it and we chat about where she spent her 3 months. I ask if she was a volunteer and when she says ‘yes’ a trail of lightbulbs went off in my head.

On my last day I went to a volunteer party… did you got to a party a few weeks after the eclipse? - Yes

I describe it perfectly for her. The court yard, the beer place, the music, the dancing. We also went off to a club together after the party.

So weird.

It turns out she also went to the same place on St Patricks Day in Accra a couple of weeks before, the Irish pub with the live band. We made a pile of shoes and danced on the concrete until they felt like velvet slippers when we were done. Such an awesome night.

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It is a small world but I wouldn’t want to paint it.

So why does facebook suck?

Because now you meet people, you make them your friend and maybe someday you notice they’re in the same country and you can track them down. We’re all becoming ultra connected, how can we manage all those narrow threads of brief connections manageable. GPS and mobiles will making ‘pinging’ your friends a normal thing. Its cool to think you will know who will be in the pub that night without asking them but then so will the police if we continue towards this dangerous path along the shattered road of civil liberties.

The chances of people meeting again, randomly reconnecting across the continents is a spectacular luxury we have  in the west, but one that is doomed to die. I met a girl called Rachel in New Zealand, Australia and Indonesia, the second and third time only briefly, but in the middle of nowhere. It was such fun. Maybe a well trodden route and not entirely unexpected but Ghana to Belize after 25 months is so amazing.

So guard your friend requests. Don’t make it a quest to gather up as many as you can. More that a few hundred are not your friends, they’re just names, more than a thousand is a full fledged hobby.  How you people make time to make new friends I never know. I guess I should try being an attractive girl to find out.

Defriend a few people right now and see if you miss them… they wont mind, they wont even notice you’re gone. Then maybe you’ll bump into a old friend you stupidly failed to make the first time.

So where is the tragedy? That I had to wait so long to really meet Caroline. She’s great. Rest assured I have not fallen in love with her over a weird coincidence, indeed she was  freaked out by the whole thing. Maybe she thought I was stalking her across the world :p We passed and didn’t connect.

The tragedy was that I didn’t make any impression on her the first time. Although she lost her photos she doesn’t appear in any of mine from the two nights in Accra. I hung back a bit, I chatted to some people but I wasn’t really there until I started dancing. As you get older you have less to lose and more to gain from being outrageous. We all want to be remembered, if only temporarily, because one day that’s all we will be.

So I will make it my goal now on to find as many people as I can to charm, encourage, humour, help and impress. I’m trying but I need to try harder. I need to be more aggressive than I am, less watching from the wings when I should be pushing towards the center of the stage. You should try the same. Who wants to be forgettable?

I believe we’re like a half marble bouncing around in a marble bag. You may never meet other half but you never will unless you try to connect with every marble in the bag. Just don’t add them all to facebook, it crashes if you have more than a million friends.

So I guess its really not facebook that sucks but me. I shan’t cancel my account just yet.

You’d impress me right now by subscribing and telling 3 more people to subscribe, my blog is now my sole income. I’m trying to travel overland to every country remember, its not free.

*If you want to add me in facebook I’m Travel Trousers, put something original on my wall. Mum, don’t even try!

Comments are back on.



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Caye Caulker, Belize

Well, I enjoyed the Sea Hawk snorkeling trip so much I went again, I even got a discount, but then I figured I could have gone diving for a few dollars more… oops!. Maybe this time I would get lucky with the Manatees!

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Caye Caulker, Belize

One week would never be enough but it would have to do. Caye Caulker isn’t the ‘la isla bonita’ Madonna sings about but it was a beautiful spot all the same. The time was right, I arranged to take Katrijn and Eva over to Flores in Guatemala and just about managed to catch the boat where I am writing this post.

What a great week. Rain, storms, lots of sunshine, warm water but mostly my time was filled with hanging out with a great group of people. After a day at a boring hotel I moved into Bella’s and started having lots of fun. I admit the other guys were having even more fun, but then they were drinking all hours of the day and I didn’t want or need to compete with that.

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We did lots of relaxing at the split where they have a great spot for relaxing on the broken concrete pier and a rickety dive board for showing off to the girls. Alcohol and dive boards are not a good combination, but highly entertaining.

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I wasn’t just hanging out slacking though. I went out on the free kayaks with Jordan to try my luck at some fishing which was fun. Didn’t catch a damn thing but he still managed to sell me his rod and reel for $30 us. I got a good deal :) Caye Caulker_10Jul2008_2053

The snorkeling trip with the boys from the Sea Hawk were highly recommended too, it seemed everyone from the hostel ended up going and how can I argue with figures like that? They sail out to the reef and make three stops. Hopefully sighting some Manatees on the way. We didn’t get that lucky, there were 2 hanging out but the group before us ended up scaring them away. I put my underwater camera to some good use though.

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Nikki shooting me shooting her.

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You know what they saw about boats and alcohol though, drinking rum punch while hanging off the rope at the back is not such a great idea, but it seemed it at the time.

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There were a few hard nights of drinking to get through too. I should stress I mostly managed to resist the pull of cheap rum and didn’t have a single hangover. Lots of the guys there ended up missing most of the night after.

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Lucy and Jordan display the damage. 7 bottles of rum.



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Caye Caulker, Belize

Its only a Portuguese  Man ‘O War!

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